Fat Louie's + Spring Ragu with Lamb

On retirement plans and pasta without red sauce

Almost exactly four years ago, over Memorial Day Weekend, Mrs. CWD and I were in Texas for a wedding. Now Mrs. CWD’s immediately family may have different thoughts on the matter, but I happen to love Texas¹. I like the wide open spaces, the cowboy heritage², the rodeos, the ranches, the wildlife, and, most importantly — the food.

While looking for breakfast options amidst the whirlwind of a long wedding weekend, the extended Family CWD³ and I stumbled upon Pearl Snap Kolaches. Without having any idea what a kolache was, I walked in and order about a dozen, putting them down in minutes. It was the start of a beautiful relationship.

Less than a year later, holed up in New Hampshire during the lockdowns, I ordered the Garden & Gun cookbook for some cooking inspiration. I was pleasantly surprised to stumble upon their kolache recipe, which we promptly made, and loved⁴. Shortly after, I promised myself that if the opportunity ever came up, I would buy a small cafe and turn it into a kolache spot called Fat Louie’s⁵.

That chance hasn’t come up yet, but I’m still holding out. I think it would be a nice career transition for me — premake a couple dozen kolaches every morning and stay open til we sell out. Kolaches are fun, but they’re hard work. Like a life well-lived.

We’re not going to make any today, however — too complicated. Instead, we’re gonna roll with a nice way to use some of your early season veggies — your carrots, your spring garlic, your radishes, a leftover onion or two: we’re going to make a spring ragu. I used ground lamb here, since we got some in our meat share, but beef, bison, or pork would work equally well. Theoretically, you could even omit the meat, I suppose — but let’s remember where we are!

Let’s get it going.

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Dice up whatever fresh spring veggies you have on hand — radishes, carrots, spring onions, garlic scape, even some asparagus would be nice — and sauté in a deep pan with plenty of olive oil, salt, and pepper. Once the vegetables have started to soften, but before they get too brown, add a pound or two of ground meat.

As the meat cooks through, bring a pot of water to boil in well salted water and cook about a pound of pasta short of al dente. As the meat finishes, drain the pasta and add it the pan, reserving some pasta water to thin out the sauce as needed. Stir well to incorporate and cook for a few more minutes, allowing the noodles to pick up the sauce, glistening.

Serve immediately, heartily, with plenty of parmigiano cheese⁶.

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There you have it, folks. A nice way to cap off the spring, getting ready to transition to summer. It’s Memorial Day this weekend, which also feels like that turning point for me⁷. Maybe try this one night in lieu of burgers⁸.

We’re going to, as we do every year, be doing the Murph Challenge this weekend — though we’ll see how I do after battling some food poisoning this week. I encourage you to do the same⁹. I’m also going to blame that food poisoning for the brevity of this week’s dispatch, and disjointedness. I was laid up in bed for most of the week and didn’t cook nor write very much¹⁰. That’s life folks.

So give thanks for those who’ve served, enjoy the freedom we sometimes can take for granted, and do your best to get outside — you owe it to yourself!

1. As Davy Crockett once said, after losing a Congressional race: “You may go to hell; I will go to Texas.”

2. Lonesome Dove is one of my favorite books.

3. Mrs. CWD’s side, for proper credit.

4. It was actually also the first time I made bread on my own.

5. Uncle Steady is also allowed to roast, brew, and serve coffee and beer there as well. Steady Louie’s?

6. Pecorino would also work.

7. And also, my birthday. Another turn around the sun down.

8. Which are always a hit, don’t get me wrong.

9. Try Murph, not get food poisoning.

10. In fact, the only reason this posts is getting out in time is we are up North, and Doggie CWD was so excited to be here, she got up with the sunrise… giving me time to write while allowing Mrs. CWD and the kiddos to sleep in.